Tangy and driven by wet slate — rather than fresh fruit — character, Villa Bellangelo 2012 Dry Riesling ($19) is a reminder of just how difficult it is to make great dry riesling. It’s very minerally on the nose — think wet river rock and slate — with background notes of Granny Smith apple, just-ripe pear and apple blossom.

Lighter bodied, the palate is so slate-y as to be almost salty, with faint lime and grapefruit zest flavors as well. The acidity is bitter-pithy rather than juicy. The mid-palate is a bit hollow, but the finish is long and appetite whetting, begging for food and and sip.

AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.3%
RS: .1%
TA: 8.1 g/L
pH: 2.94
IRF: Dry
Production: 303 cases
Price: $19*

(2.5 out of 5, Average-to-Very Good)