Damiani Wine Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($45) — proved me wrong. I can admit it. I have to.

Finger Lakes pinot noir — and to a lesser extent Blaufrankisch — have been coming on strong in recent years. But cabernet sauvignon? I’ve been less then enthusiastic after tasting seeral.

Maybe cabernet can only get here in one or two out of ten years, but this wine is a new benchmark for the variety in the Finger Lakes.

Its concentrated, brooding nose offers aromas of blueberry, currant and plum with a savory/umami edge and an integrated dose of oak and herbs in the back background.

Mouth-filling but still wiry and lithe, the palate shows similar concentration at its core — currant, blueberry, fig and plum — with a toasty edge. Youthful, well-integrated tannins provide ample structure without overwhelming the wine.

A long, fruity finish — with an herbal edge — stretches out and gets even a bit more complex on day two.

Producer: Damiani Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 13.9%
Production: 145 cases
Price: $45*

(4 out of 5, Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)