Red Tail Ridge co-owner and winemaker Nancy Irelan clearly enjoys experimenting. She’s already garnered attention for growing and working with unique varieties like teroldego and dornfelder, but with the 2012 vintage she also tried some different things in the cellar with the Finger Lakes’ most beloved grape — riesling.

This Red Tail Ridge Winery 2010 “Block 606” Riesling ($25) was made with hand-picked fruit that was whole-cluster pressed and allowed to ferment without inoculation. Fermentation took 76 days to complete. The result is a dry, lower-acidity style of riesling that shows some complexity — particularly on the nose.

Featuring aromas of juicy pear, granny smith apple, grapefruit zest and citrus blossom, the nose also shows an earthy, almost loamy edge that you might not expect.

Soft and just-balanced, it shows nice breadth as it spreads over the palate. Fruit flavors remain in the citrus and pomme family and a minerally, slate-y note marks a finish that lingers nicely.