Though still a somewhat rare oddity, varietal petit verdot has become a bit more common here on Long Island — and many of them are delicious in their intensity. Unfortunately, many of them are also quite expensive, up to $100 per bottle, making them less accessible for many customers.

Enter Paumanok Vineyards 2012 Petit Verdot ($28) — not cheap, but the rare under-$30 local example. It also might be my go-to burger wine this summer.

Want to experience young petit verdot? It’s all here with aromas of blueberry, black licorice, molasses, banana peel, white pepper and violets.

All of the color, acidity and tannic structure that make petit verdot a great blender is also on full display here, giving this wine a rustic edge and making me crave a big, juicy burger with a good char and sharp cheddar. The flavors are a bit more one dimensional than the nose — mostly dark fruits and licorice — but that’s part of it’s youthful charm.

Paumanok’s single-vineyard petit verdot has proven to be quite age-worthy. I think the same is probably true here — especially with the screwcap closure.

2012, featured, paumanok vineyards, petit verdot, Review