By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Wiemer-09-magdalena As much affection as I feel for the wines of New York State, there are only a handful of wineries with “any wine” status — status that means I will happily drink any wine from their portfolio. Hermann J. Wiemer is a winery with such status in my life.

From their $12 Frost Cuvee — a clean, fresh blend of riesling, gewurztraminer, pinot noir, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc — to their $95 TBA-style riesling, the portfolio is a winner.

Several of these wines will be reviewed on the NYCR over the next few weeks, starting with Hermann J. Wiemer 2009 Magdalena Vineyard Riesling Dry ($36).

The Magdalena Vineyard is one of the warmest sites on Seneca Lake and it shows in the intensity and richness of the wine.

Golden Delicious apples, lime and fig fruit aromas are layered with floral and blanched almond notes on the nose.

Grapefruit, lime, Golden Delicious apple and understated peach flavors run over top of a bed of wet river rock and slate. There is an intensity and density to the fruit here, but it’s perfectly balanced — not a term I use lightly — by well-integrated, zesty acidity. Long on the finish, with high-toned floral and lime-citrus flavors — the palate on this wine is the complete package.

Producer: Hermann J. Wiemer
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.5%
Price: $36*
Rating: 93

(*Ratings Guide)