You won’t find a lot of varietal cabernet sauvignon wines in the Finger Lakes — with good reason. Generally speaking, later-ripening reds aren’t as well-suited to the region as other types of grapes.

That said, Damiani Wine Cellars typically bucks that trend and makes some of the better cab in the region.

Damiani Wine Cellars 2012 Barrel Select Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) isn’t as good as the outstanding 2010, but it still balances ripe fruit with oak and savory notes well.

The nose shows a melange of aromas — sweet blueberry compote, blackberry, savory dried herbs, soy sauce, and dusty, earthy cocoa powder. Mouth-filling and slightly chewy, the palate shows bright red and black berry fruits, a savory edge and faint chocolate and raw oak flavors. There is a nice bit of acidity here along with what feels like oak tannins.

I’m going to taste this wine again in 6 months to see how it develops. As it’s tasting today, it seems a little overpriced.

Producer: Damiani Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 13.9%
Production: 215 cases
Price: $45 (sample)
(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)