Warning: The chardonnay reviews are coming.

I recently tasted three-plus cases of Long Island chardonnay — all 2013 and 2014 vintages — for a story I’m working on for Long Island Wine Press. I survived and learned quite a bit, but you’ll have to wait for that story to come out to learn more. I won’t publish reviews for all of them, or even most, but some will be coming. Starting today.

I won’t publish reviews for all of them, or even most, but some will be coming. Starting today.

He’s perhaps known for other things, but Paumanok Vineyards winemaker Kareem Massoud makes chardonnay, too. Four different ones, in fact. After tasting each during my tasting, the Paumanok Vineyards 2013 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, which was fermented in oak and then aged in the same barrels for seven additional months, is the one I kept coming back to over the course of three or four days.

I have a reputation within the local industry for, among other things, not loving chardonnay. Particularly oaky chardonnay. Here though, the oak footprint – which show more as a toasty, nutty edge than overt woody or vanilla or butterscotch flavors – accents rather than overwhelms a solid core of ripe apple and lemon flavors that are accented by floral and faintly herbal notes.

That time in the barrel seems to have been just enough for the wine to relax a bit. The palate is broader and more mouth-filling than its no-oak cousin (Festival Chardonnay) but doesn’t lose any of the great, citrusy acidity that slices through the nuanced richness and concentration.

Don’t drink it right out of the fridge. Just cooler than room temperature allows this wine to show all it has to offer.

This is also my northforker.com wine of the week for 2/11/16.

2013, barrel fermented, chardonnay, paumanok vineyards