You can’t throw a lime-soaked river rock in the Finger Lakes nowadays without hitting a bottle of single-vineyard riesling. Most of the top producers bottle them these days. Some of the lesser ones do too, where it’s perhaps more marketing gimmick than actual exploration of site-by-site terroir.

Back in December, Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars announced its own series of single-vineyard rieslings, each meant to honor one woman in the Frank family. The first wine of the series is named “Eugenia” for Dr. Konstantin Fran’s wife.

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2014 “Eugenia” Dry Riesling ($30) is made with grapes grown in “block 3” — the oldest, steepest and most shale-laden section of the winery’s estate vineyard on Keuka Lake. The grapes were handled gently in the winery and fermentation started with ambient yeast, but was inoculated to finish.

Beautiful lime aromas — both pulp and blossom — lead the way along with notes of peach, slate and a bit of dried pineapple. Mouth-wateringly dry (drier even than the winery’s regular “Dry Riesling”) the palate is focused and the acidity is incorporated here providing verve without being distracting. Full flavored with intense lime, grapefruit and stone fruit flavors, there is just a hint of fennel-y herb before it finishes with a distinct minerally note.

This is one of the best dry rieslings I’ve had this year.

Producer: Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars
Finger Lakes
Blend:  100% riesling
Price: $30 (sample)
Rating: 92