Chardonnay is the most-planted variety on Long Island. Just about every winery makes it at least one bottling, and many have several. Just because it’s the most planted, however, doesn’t mean it’s what the region does best. In fact, in general, I think there is a lot of bad Chardonnay made here (but that’s true of many other regions too, right?) If you’ve been reading LENNDEVOURS long, you’ve probably seen me use "Long Island-style Chardonnay" to describe some of the better ones. They aren’t quite as crisp or minerally as the best white Burgundies, but they aren’t flabby, buttered-oak California…