The local wine scene is dominated by some of its biggest producers, which only makes sense, I guess. I’m talking aobut places like Wolffer Estate, Lenz Winery and the Ps — Pindar, Palmer, Peconic Bay and Paumanok. Each has a wide range of wines in its portfolio, but merlot is a constant. Each makes at least two different versions each vintage, sometimes more. Those are the big fish in the little pond that is Long Island wine country. But there are little fish too. Every vintage, it seems, welcomes new wineries. In fact, I learned about a brand-spanking new one…