Stainless steel-fermented chardonnay is one of Long Island’s great wine pleasures. They are always affordable and refreshing, rarely offensive and sometimes absolutely delicious. In being made without oak barrels (or other oak chunks, stave, dust, etc.) these wines allow the true character of locally grown chardonnay grapes to come through. I know that it’s hard to believe, but these wines allow you to actually taste chardonnay, not the winemaker’s manipulation of chardonnay. We drink a lot of ‘steel chardonnay’ around our house and, as I said, they are rarely offensives. Sometimes, they do miss the mark however. One 2007 white…