By Lenn Thompson, Founder and Editor

Jamesport_08rieslingBetween my love for the grape and of our recent trip to the Finger Lakes (and yes, I know I owe you guys more than a few posts about it), a lot of riesling has found its way into my glass in recent weeks. A lot of riesling.

So what did I do when we got back from our trip and pulled wines to taste and review as a part of my weekly lineup? I included yet another riesling: Jamesport Vineyards 2008 Riesling ($30).

Long Island riesling tends to be quite different from those made in the Finger Lakes. Long Island renditions tend to be riper, broader and usually have less of that crackling acidity that marks the best Finger Lakes wines.

I'm not sure when this wine was bottled, but I have a feeling it may have been fairly recently. When first opened, there's quite a bit of sulphur funk here, but it blows off pretty quickly revealing aromas of green apple, honey, lapsang souchong (a kind of smoked tea) and grapefruit.

The palate is medium-bodied and 2.5% residual sugar is balance very well by fresh-but-not-bracing acidity. It's very appley with more of that smoky tea character, honey-poached peaches and hints of grapefruit. The finish is medium-length and very honeyed, which says to me that some of the crop was afflicted with botrytis.

A very different wine than those I tasted in the Finger Lakes, but very interesting. Unfortunately, at $30, I don't think it's much of a value.

Producer: Jamesport Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 12.2%
(2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

(Ratings Guide)