I’m convinced that if New York sparkling wine had the marketing push behind it — say like riesling in the Finger Lakes — a lot more wine lovers would know about and be drinking these wines. From fun and fresh to funky and rich, New York bubbly (and I’m talking about the good stuff here, not the fizzy sweet garbage) runs the gamut.

Sparkling Pointe, in Southold on the North Fork of Long Island, makes some of the best examples in a variety of classic styles, but this small production (just over 200 cases)  Sparkling Pointe 2008 Blanc de Noirs ($75) is their first wine made entirely with pinot noir and pinot meunier.

Aromas of red and white cherries are joined by light floral and toasted almond notes.

Medium-lighter bodied, the attack is fruity — again a melange of cherries — but with an earthy edge, roasted nuts and lemon curd. 33 months on the lees brings a nimble richness, while impeccable balance and freshness make this an extremely classy sparkler. It’s not cheap, but it may be a benchmark for blanc de noirs on Long Island.

Producer: Sparkling Pointe
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 12.5%
pH: 3.02
RS: 8 g/l
TA: 8.18 g/l
Price: $75*

 (4 out of 5, Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)