One hallmark of a grape well suited to a region is how it performs in non-ideal growing seasons. This Silver Thread Vineyard 2011 Pinot Noir ($22) is the forth or fifth 2011 Finger Lakes pinot noir to impress. Maybe those focusing on it really are onto something.

Red cherry, raw button mushroom and dried orange peel aromas are joined by a dusting of baking spice on a pretty, edging on sultry, nose.

Light bodied but anything but dilute. the palate is fresh with crunchy red fruits, subtle spice and an earthy edge. The finish isn’t long, but it doesn’t drop off quickly either. Best of all, this wine improved on days two and three, stretching out a bit and showing a bit more complexity.

Producer: Silver Thread Vineyard
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.4%
Price: $24 | Buy Now from Empire State Cellars

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)