Chardonnay, shmarddonay. Yes, chardonnay is the white wine that dominates the Long Island wine scene. It’s the most planted and, obviously, most made. That’s because despite trends away from it, it’s still the most sold white wine in the market. Yes, I like-and sometimes love-local chardonnay. The acid balance can be stellar in these parts. But, so far this spring, the wines I’ve been digging most have been local sauvignon blancs. There have already been several 2006 sauvignons that I’ve enjoyed and Shinn Estate Vineyards’ 2006 First Fruit ($23) which is primarily sauvignon blanc, with just a squirt (4%) Semillon,…