I drink a lot of New York sauvignon blanc — especially in the summer — but it’s nearly all from Long Island, where the grape thrives consistently, almost regardless of vintage. The handful of Finger Lakes bottlings that I’ve tried over the years have always underwhelmed, often tasting thin and uninteresting.

This Hosmer Winery 2013 Sauvignon Blanc ($16) just might make it into the rotation — especially at the price.

The nose is bright, with surprisingly complex aromatics — gooseberry and green melon with sweet floral notes, tarragon and sandalwood. As it warms, it becomes less about the fruit aromas and more about the floral ones.

A bit more tropical on the medium-light palate, there are more melon and intense white grapefruit flavors here too with citrusy acidity and a long, juicy finish.

AVA: Cayuga Lake
ABV: 12%
RS: 0%
Price: $16*

(4 out of 5, Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)