Waters Crest Winery isn’t new to me or to you guys. I’ve written about Jim Waters and his wines many times in the three-plus years I’ve had this blog.

But, for those of you that are new to LENNDEVOURS, Waters Crest Winery is one of Long Island’s smallest producers and one that I’ve long loved mainly for its white wines. The riesling in particular is a favorite of mine.

Being a small winery is one thing, but with his Waters Crest Winery 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon ($55) winemaker and co-owner Jim Waters has taken "small batch" wine to a new level. With only 24 cases made, it is available only to the wine club, but I was able to get my hands on a bottle.

Bold and full bodied, blackberries, blueberry jam, vanilla and a faint eucalyptus notes combine in a ripe, expressive nose. There is deep extraction here and substantial tannins, but even in its youth the dark fruit and vanilla flavors hint to a great future. The aging potential is big here.

People often make generalizations about Long Island cabernet sauvignon, calling it green and un-ripe. And, while there’s some truth to that, there are exceptions. This is one of them.