Long Island wine country turns 40 this year and some of the writers who write about the region most often — people like Howard Goldberg and Eileen Duffy — have already written pieces to mark the occasion. Mostly, they examine the region’s evolution and current state. That makes a lot of sense of course — we often look back on birthdays. But I’ve struggled for the past week or two to figure out how I’d mark the occasion here on the site. You see, I’ve felt a special connection to Long Island wine almost from the day I moved here more than a decade ago. I liked wine before I arrived — but after meeting and getting to know the people and places behind the wines here, I fell in love with it. My now-wife and I spent almost every free weekend (this was well before we had our kids) in wine country,…