Serving Local: Recognizing Wine Country Restaurants That Truly Support Local Wine
The wine list at Bonnie Jean’s in Southold, NY
After spending the late morning in Greenport on Sunday — riding the carousel and getting our son Jackson out onto the ice for the first time — my family and I stopped at Bonnie Jean’s in Southold for lunch. Bonnie Jean’s might seem like little more than another Long Island diner, but it is a new favorite for its affordability, its family-friendliness and for the homemade flourishes across the menu.
The restaurant now has a beer and wine license after operating for a time as a BYOB. It would have been easy for owner Jennilee Morris to offer cheap, not-very-good wines chosen by a local sales rep, but that’s not what she’s done. She’s gone local, serving local libations in a way very few Long Island restaurants do. Three beers are offered on draught, and all three local — one from Long Ireland Beer Company and two from Greenport Harbor Beer Co. The wine is 13 wines long and every wine is local. Every. Single. One.
These aren’t Long Island’s top wines, mind you, but it is a well-curated list of food-friendly, delicious wines that are being offered and fair prices. I’d happy drink any of these and there is enough variety to cover just about any savory dish you can think of.
Why isn’t this type of affordable, local wine list more common on Long Island — particularly in wine country? I can only think of a small handful of other restaurants that come close to this level of “serving local.” Many restaurants that benefit from the tourism created by New York wine. Those restaurants should help the local wineries succeed too.
In coming weeks, we’re going to formalize some “Serving Local” guidelines and build out a section of this site where we will recognize restaurants across New York that we think “serve local” in a real and meaningful way.
One guideline I’ve finalized already is this: If you’re a restaurant within a wine region, at least 50% of your wine list — including by-the-glass — should be locally produced.
Think about your favorite wine country restaurants for a moment, how many would consistently meet that mark? If so, please let us know so we can be sure to review their list and include them.
- Related:
- drink local
Good point Lenn. It’s nice to recognize folks who go to the effort of doing it right.
The folks at Rogues Harbor Inn in Lansing do an amazing job of featuring local wines and beers, as well as local produce and meats. They have several New York beers beyond the ones they brew themselves, and the wine list is proudly purely New York.
The drink list at the Bandwagon Brewpub in Downtown Ithaca includes some New York beers beyond their own, too, and several New York wines alongside some good selections from across Europe and other parts of the world.
Interesting post. We at Winespoke would be happy to help you with analyzing the wine lists for your “Serving Local” guidelines. We were trying to do something similar for wine bars in NYC.
Well said you would think local restaurant scene would be more local wine friendly. Bonnie Jeans is the best family style all round restaurant she has something for everyone.
Great story. Bonnie jean’s is a favorite of mine. Since I am in Southold quite a bit, I think you should recognize Michaelangelo’s restaurant in Southold for recently bringing in a lot of local wines. I don’t know if these restaurants meet your 50% standard, but I think they might.
Grana in Jamesport,
Love Lane Kitchen
Jamesport Country Kitchen
To be honest, if they just put at least one inspired red, white, and rose on the menu, I am satisfied. In fact, I get on the case of restaurants that don’t have at least that, even in upstate Albany. I suggest you enter any restaurant that has 50% local wine into a NYCR restaurant Hall of Fame.
“These aren’t Long Island’s top wines, mind you, but it is a well-curated list……”
Since you mentioned it, what are the top wines of Long Island Lenn?
Jake: That’s a loaded question if ever there was one…
It changes year to year somewhat, and while I could create a list right now, I’d no-doubt forget wines that deserve attention — so I will say this instead: NYCR wine editors will be convening sometime this spring to do a blind tasting of as many 2010 reds as we can gather and identifying top wines is a part of that endeavor.
I was going to do a post announcing that (still will probably) but a soft announcement here works too.
According to Bonnie Jeans web site they are pouring wines from Shinn, Macari, Lenz, Peconic Bay, Anthony Nappa, One Woman & Raphael.
I like wines from all of those producers and never thought they would not be considered top producers?
No doubt that they are some of the top producers… but I said top wines.
You’d agree that each of those wineries have wines that are even better than the ones on this list.
That said — again — I’d drink any of these any night of the week.
Thats why ‘Im so curious to see what you consider “Top Wines” because often times so many writers take into account the price/value ratio. Usually giving higher praise to wines that are high quality AND inexpensive!
Even though Paumanok’s Festival Chardonnay, Shinn’s Coalesence, Nappa’s Anomoly and Macari’s Sette (all poured btg at Bonnie Jeans) are not the most expensive at each winery, I would consider them all at the “Top” end for delivering quality at a great price!Wouldn’t you agree? I believe I’ve seen past reviews of them on NYCR that were all favorable.
I’ll be looking forward to see your “Top” “Top” list in the future.
Thanks
I would consider
Cheers to Jennilee for making Bonnie Jean’s happen! And to Lenn for recognizing it! More power to both of you.
Jennilee has done plenty of wonderful things with food, wine and coffee on the North Fork and it is great to see her getting much deserved recognition for her own place.
I vividly remember my first wine trip to Napa and Sonoma and being relieved to come across that rare restaurant that had an international wine list. Back then it was rare, today in Sonoma and Napa it is more rare to find a restaurant that only has local wines.
I love being able to talk about the Tuthills Cabernet Sauvignon while a diner is looking at a list with the best from Napa, Sonoma, Bordeaux and Tuscany. I also find that wine buyers have more confidence in a recommendation when they recognize the best is also available.