The nose on this Fulkerson Winery 2012 Gruner Veltliner ($14) isn’t as intense as the best gruners I’ve had from Austria — the region where it is most planted and known — but it does show nice varietal character with its light nose of pineapple, peach and citrus with notes of white pepper and citrus blossom.
Bright and citrusy on the palate, it is a bit lacking in concentration, but brings a bit more spice than the nose and a juicy mouthfeel. It’d be refreshing on a hot summer day and was actually a nice pairing with some black bean-cilantro burgers the other night.
With its varietal characters — without the full-on intensity — think of this as a gruner with training wheels.
Producer: Fulkerson Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
(2.5 out of 5, Average-to-Very Good)