Posts Written ByEvan Dawson

2009 Harvest Update: Heart & Hands Wine Company Pinot Noir

Photo courtesy of Heart & Hands Wine Company By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor Listen carefully, and you can hear the din of late-night celebrations at Heart & Hands Wine Company on Cayuga Lake. They are toasting the warm, nearly arid September for resurrecting the pinot noir that is now coming in. "September not only saved the vintage, but we're looking at some of the ripest fruit I've seen so far," says owner and winemaker Tom Higgins, now in his third vintage. Heart & Hands makes 90% pinot noir and 10% riesling, so there was a lot riding on September.…

Heron Hill Hires New Winemaker: Bernard Cannac

Heron Hill's new winemaker, Bernard Cannac, working with just-picked pinot noir last week. By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor Photos courtesy of Heron Hill Winery Just in time for the riesling rush of harvest, Heron Hill Winery on Keuka Lake has hired a new head winemaker. After an arduous search process, Bernard Cannac of France has landed the job and will arrive Friday to begin work.  Cannac is a native of the Languedoc region of France, but has spent recent years consulting and making wine on Long Island. The 36-year old arrives in the region with his wife, and according…

2009 Harvest Update: Low Yields at Hermann J. Wiemer

This iconic old barn greets visitors to Hermann J. Wiemer's Magdalena Vineyard By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor In a challenging vintage such as this one, Hermann J. Wiemer has two advantages over many other producers: low yields and a thoughtful picking strategy that brings grapes in on multiple days. First, the picking strategy, which has been carefully developed over many years — first by Hermann and then by current owner and winemaker Fred Merwarth. Instead of picking riesling and gewurztraminer in one sweep, Wiemer brings the grapes in during numerous waves. The last of the three waves of gewurztraminer…

Long Island Wine Country Trip Report: At Channing Daughters and Paumanok, Experiments Yield Success

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor Morgan and I took our first trip to Long Island wine country last weekend and I plan to share some observations and experiences in a series of upcoming posts. They are in no particular order of quality or chronology, and I should state emphatically that the winemakers and owners we met were excessively generous with their time and cellars.  Long Island wine country is, in no small measure, a must-visit for New York wine enthusiasts. It is wildly different when compared to the state's other appellations. The vineyards are flatter than a cookie sheet…

Lucas Vineyards: Giving Syrah an Honest Shot In the Finger Lakes

Syrah clusters hanging in there as harvest approaches at Lucas Vineyards By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes EditorPhotos by Morgan Dawson Photography Lucas winemaker Jeff Houck is unaware of this, but he was born with trace amounts of sodium pentothal in his blood. You know it better as "truth serum." He's incapable of even trying to mislead you about the wines made by Lucas Vineyards on the southwestern part of Cayuga Lake. He's an FBI agent's dream — were he ever to commit a high-profile felony, that is. Easiest conviction ever. I didn't know this, of course, until I asked why…

Not Your Usual Harvest Dinners

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor     You drive down lake roads this time of year and I know what you're thinking. The sunflowers appear to be slumped over, bowing their heads and mourning the death of summer. It's important to remember that they're only weighed down by seeds. New life. Harvest is here. Perhaps you've attended a harvest dinner before, but I'd guess you've never attended a harvest dinner that pairs locally grown food with a full flight of… beer? Yes, beer, for the entire evening. "Beer fanatics are already excited about this one," says Liz Karabinakis, the community food…

Constellation Moving Widmer; Says RIT Could Take Over Property

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor Today Constellation Brands confirmed that it will shut down production at the massive Widmer Wine Cellars facility in Naples in 2011. The facility cranks out 2.2 million cases of wine each year, including the Widmer, Brickstone, Taylor and Manischewitz brands. Constellation will continue to make the wine, moving all production to its Canandaigua facility. "We expect the full 2.2 million cases to transfer to Canandaigua as part of the consolidation," says Constellation Director of Corporate Communications Angela Blackwell. The move will bring the Canandaigua facility's annual production to an even 10 million cases. While…

This Is Your Grape. This Is Your Grape On Downy Mildew.

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor Photo by Morgan Dawson Photography Downy mildew is like the slasher movie killer in the vineyard: You almost never see it, but when it does make an appearance there is a trail of destruction in its wake. And all summer long, we heard how this was a disease pressure year like few others — a slasher movie, to be sure, in the unsuspecting vineyards. Check out this photograph of grapes ravaged by downy mildew. It was taken in a Finger Lakes vineyard that serves only as an experimental block and thus is not designed…

The Wine of His Life: Anthony Road Set to Release Riesling TBA

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor Photos by Morgan Dawson Photography If you're the type of wine drinker who tunes out when people start talking about "dessert wine," I'm going to ask you to abandon your prejudice. This is the story of a wine that is way beyond a simple after-dinner drink. With apologies to the many nicely made ice and dessert wines in New York state, the TBA is so much more than that. And in this case, it's a wine that a German-born winemaker Johannes Reinhardt dreamt about for years, wondering if he'd even get the chance to…

Finger Lakes 2009 Vintage: Working Hard for a Happy Ending

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor Photos by Morgan Dawson Just as hailstorms and cold snaps are destructive to a vineyard, sweeping generalizations are destructive to a harvest report. This year, more than any in recent memory, it is nearly impossible to describe the Finger Lakes pre-harvest conditions in one or two declarative statements. That's because Mother Nature did some — let's just call it like it is — weird, weird stuff this year.  Take the case of Hermann J. Wiemer, which utilizes three vineyards on Seneca Lake. One of them, the HJW vineyard behind the winery itself, endured a recent…