Posts Written ByLenn Thompson

Heart & Hands Wine Company 2013 Patrician Verona Vineyard Riesling

When Tom and Susan Higgins set out to create Heart & Hands Wine Company, pinot noir was to be the focus — and it is. Tom is making some of the best pinot on the East Coast. At the same time, the riesling program has grown beyond what the couple expected (I tasted more than a half dozen bottlings on a recent visit) and offers outstanding quality as well. The fruit used to make Heart & Hands Wine Company 2013 Patrician Verona Vineyard Riesling ($28) was grown on the west side of Cayuga Lake on a site that consistently produces ripe, fruit-forward rieslings. That’s…

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Hermann J. Wiemer 2013 Cabernet Franc

Even though I’ve been writing wine reviews for many years now, I never stop asking myself about their real value, whether or not I’m approaching them in the right way or how I can improve my process. Looking out at the rest of the industry — I’m talking more about printed publications, who tend to be a bit more transparent with how they taste and review wines — there don’t seem to be any set rules. Some critics taste wine “blind” but not really — because they know the region the wines are made, so any bias they may have for…

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Billsboro Winery 2012 Pinot Noir

Billsboro Winery 2010 Pinot Noir ($25) offers aromas of black cherry sprinkled with potpurri, root beer and smoke and toasted oak that is just a little distracting. The fresh, nicely concentrated palate brings more cherries — black and maraschino — a bit of chocolate and subtle. It’s less oaky than the nose and has soft, supple tannins and a nice bit of juicy acidity. Producer: Billsboro Winery AVA: Finger Lakes ABV: 12.5% Price: $25 (sample) (3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

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Paumanok Vineyards Wins Winery of the Year; Ventosa 2011 Lemberger Wins 2015 Governor’s Cup

If you’re interested in such things and have been anywhere near Facebook or Twitter today, you’ve no doubt read that the 2015 New York Wine & Food Classic was yesterday. Over the years, we’ve been critical of all competitions like this one (not just this one), but this year we’re simply going to report on the results, which you can find in the below press release from the New York Wine & Grape Foundation. Congratulations to the winners. Watkins Glen, New York, August 12 – Ventosa Vineyards 2011 Lemberger, Estate Grown from the Finger Lakes Region won the coveted “Governor’s…

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New York Cork Club: August 2015 Selections

The August 2015 wines for the New York Cork Club will ship once the weather cools a bit (the July wines will ship soon too I hope). In the meantime, I wanted to tell you a bit about them. (If you missed our announcement about the rebirth of New York Cork Club, check it out here.) For August, we’ll return to the “one red and one white” club shipment — with one classic grape from a well-known winery and one lesser-known grape from an under-appreciated winery included: Keuka Lake Vineyards 2014 Gently Dry Vignoles — Some look down on vignoles because it’s a hybrid grape…

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Bouquet 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

Long Island sauvignon blanc has arrived and is just starting to get the attention outside of the region that it deserves. Quality is high nearly across the board while bright, steel-fermented versions will always rule the category, blending, skin contact, time in barrels of various ages add some diversity as well. But, it’s gotten hard to find good Long Island sauvignon blanc for less than $22. Bouquet 2014 Sauvignon Blanc ($18) is a rare find in that regard. The lightly saline nose is driven by lemon and grapefruit aromas and a subtle green melon note. Though a bit austere and light-bodied, the palate…

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Mattebella Vineyards 2013 Steel Chardonnay

Lower- and no-oak chardonnay is getting a lot of attention in California these days — especially among the “New California” set — but this style of chardonnay has been popular for many years in Long Island wine country — and this is Mattebella Vineyards‘ first foray into the barrel-less chardonnay game. Mattebella Vineyards 2013 Steel Chardonnay ($20) smells like fresh pears and yellow apples with just a hint of sweet corn. Sometimes steel chardonnay can be a bit lean and tinny, but this one is fleshier than that with a gently creamy mid-palate. Fruit-forward and fairly direct, the palate is…

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Raphael 2014 “First Label” Sauvignon Blanc

Since his arrival on Long Island in 2007, Anthony Nappa — who serves as winemaker for Raphael as well as his own label after working for Shinn Estate Vineyards for four years — has shown a deft hand with North Fork sauvignon blanc. Perhaps Nappa’s time spent studying winemaking in New Zealand helped a little. Regardless, he makes some of my favorite local sauvignon, more or less regardless of who he’s making it for or where the fruit comes from. Sometimes they are crispy and lighter-styled. Other times they are concentrated and textural. Raphael 2014 “First Label” Sauvignon Blanc ($28) continues that tradition and…

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Leonard Oakes Estate Winery 2013 Reserve Series Sauvignon Blanc

Lightly saline on the nose, with notes of lemony citrus, fresh-cut hay and grapefruit, Leonard Oakes Estate Winery 2013 Reserve Series Sauvignon Blanc ($17) is a snappy, refreshing sauvignon. The palate lacks a bit of concentration, but is bright, citrusy and mouthwatering — with a savory minerality that peeks through on a medium-long finish. Producer: Leonard Oakes Estate Winery AVA: New York State ABV: 12.5% Price: $17 (sample) (3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)

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Regan Meador, Southold Farm + Cellar: We Are Closed, But Not Finished.

Editor’s note: The following was written by Regan Meador, co-owner and winemaker at Southold Farm + Cellar, a true family-run small business that does not deserve the trouble the town and one over-zealous neighbor are causing his family. This probably won’t be the last post I write about this. More soon. As of July 9th, 2015 we have been asked by the Town of Southold to cease all operations or face fines and/or jail time. We are heartbroken, to say the least. Prior to purchasing the property in 2012 we had sought guidance with the town and have been completely…

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