Evan Dawson: Long Island Wines This is the natural time to reflect on the calendar year. My wife's parents make their first journey to Long Island wine country and for Christmas we enjoyed the wines they discovered. Long Island's sparkling wines are similar to the best Finger Lakes sparkling wines: solid, impressive, under-appreciated. We paired the Paumanok 2009 Sauvignon Blanc with shellfish and, even in the dead of winter, the pairing sang a near-perfect harmony. Wines from Hermann J. Wiemer offered a nice counter-balance. The evening concluded with a pile of emptied bottles, including some from Peconic Bay, Shinn,…