By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief
Syrah is a mere bit player in the world of New York wine.
Only a few Long Island wineries produce varietal bottlings, usually only it the ripest and hottest of years, and the same is true in other New York wine regions.
More often, it finds itself used in blends, lending dark berry and pepper spice.
I honestly don't know a lot about the ripening curb Some would say that it's just too cool in New York to ripen syrah consistently. Proponents would argue that a Northern Rhone-style syrah is possible in New York, even if big, fruit-bombs like those from California and Australia never will be.
Me, I have yet to be blown away by a New York syrah.
That said, wines like this Macari Vineyards 2007 Syrah ($35) do show some potential for the grape.
The nose explodes with black pepper spice with black and blue fruit, and damp soil and violets there as well.
So young that it's perhaps not showing its best yet, the palate is big and mouthfilling with ripe, staunch tannins, but flavor-wise, it's a bit one-note right now with lots of black pepper and only a little black cherry beneath.
By day three, a little pencil lead and smoky meatiness emerged. I hope to re-taste this one a year from now.