Wolffer Estate Vineyards winemaker Roman Roth makes some of my favorite oak-influenced chardonnay. Yes, I do have favorites in the category, I just don’t reach for them often. His best chardonnay, “Perle” is one of the top made on Long Island, and I guess you could call¬†Wolffer Estate Vineyards 2010 “White Mischief” Chardonnay ($35) its sister wine — but made with ambient yeasts. Fermented 70% in stainless steel and 30% new French oak, the nose overflows with tropical pineapple, peach, and pear fruit aromas and notes of lilac and lavendar and only the faintest evidence of vanilla oak. Mouth-filling and…