Sheldrake Point Vineyards 2009 “BLK 3″ Pinot Noir
When I asked winemaker Dave Breeden to tell me about Sheldrake Point Vineyards 2009 “BLK 3″ Pinot Noir ($30 at release, now sold out) – the first vintage of a new vineyard-designated pinot – he didn’t have much he could tell me. “I can’t claim any credit at all for that wine — it’s entirely a project of Bob Madill, both in the vineyard and winery,” he said in an email.
Madill is of course the winery’s general manager, and he describes the BLK3 project as his “way of returning to my early days in the Ontario wine industry.” He was curious what might happen with a small block of pinot noir if he paid extra attention to it and treating the vines and the wine in a “timely and appropriate fashion.” BLK 3 is only three rows of pinot noir, but it’s in a good place closer to the lake.
“(Our vineyard manager) Dave Wiemann has been doing the spraying work for me when called for,” Madill told me, adding “Both Daves have helped out when I am away travelling. In addition, I get to try out some of the practices and advice from my friends in Burgundy — copious and mostly having to do with the vineyard.”
The wine is very much hands off — but would never be labeled ‘natural’ — whatever that means. Madill likes Assmanhausen yeast, even if he calls it “stinky and a bit of a bad actor” because finds its typical results compelling. So, he used it. Why no natural fermenation?
“We have tried bits of ‘natural’ fermentation from time to time,” he told me ”I am just uncertain of what the dominant yeast strain(s) might be in our winery.”
In 2009, he did not inoculate for malo-lactic fermentation, however. The wine was just racked into barrel. All of the transfers were done using only gravity — “forklifts are so handy” he says. ”The notion is simply to bring the results of the growing season into the bottle. None of the foregoing necessarily produces a ‘great’ wine. It will however, likely be interesting and very specific and variable as the season is variable.”
And I think he’s right. This isn’t a ‘great wine’ but it tells the tale of those three rows in 2009. With layered aromas of sweet red cherry, sandalwood, loamy earth, and faint savory spice, it’s unmistakably pinot noir — but you can tell that it was a cooler year.
Soft, supple tannins and gentle acidity frame a medium-light bodied palate that offers cherry and pomegranate fruit flavors accented by a savory, earthy edge. The finish is medium-long and there is a distinct sweet herb note at the end.
The 2009 is sold out, but I look forward to trying the 2010 and 2011 and beyond. These are the kinds of wines that geeks of my ilk dig.
Producer: Sheldrake Point Vineyards
AVA: Finger Lakes
pH: 3.51
TA: 5.4 g/L
ABV: 12.7%
Production: 50 cases
Price: $30*
(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)
Having had this wine a few times I really enjoy it. The vineyard and especially for me the cellar practices are a move forward for Pinot Noir in the finger lakes. Can not wait to try the 2010 block 3 Pinot noir.
To my way of thinking Pinot should offer a point of view. Transparent and unencumbered. It does really and truly start in the vineyard. Finger Lakes producers that actually work in their Pinot vineyards will walk the talk. Otherwise, it an’t going to happen. Not with Pinot. Best stop using herbicides and work the soil. It makes a difference.
If the winemaking does not get in the way, then at the very least, the vintage from a particular place should show through. And if that is what is desired, then no fooling around with adding sugar, acid, tannins, color – whatever. Boring!
This approach does not make the wine better, it facilitates specificity. The ‘what you see is what you get’ part. I am not for ‘clever’ winemaking in the lab and cellar. Just like the food I want to eat. No clever chemicals thanks.
A few weeks ago in Niagara a friend and I commiserated with each other about our feelings about 2010. That was a dry year and many varieties did not get ripe no matter the brix and the BS. Volumes and good expression were down. We both preferred our 2009, 2011 and just loved the 2012 vintage for Pinot.
Like everyone else I follow some wineries in the Finger Lakes, Michigan, Virginia, Niagara, Alto Adige, where ever. Mostly for the point of view.
Lenn, Bob – we’ve found decanting the BLK3 09 and also most of our FLX Pinot Noirs. Giving them time to breathe really does bring out the great side of the wine!