Wolffer Estates, in the Hamptons region of Long Island, is probably one of my favorite two or three producers in New York State. From their bone-dry, mostly-Merlot Rose to their full-flavored Cabernet Franc to their succulent Late Harvest Chardonnay dessert wine, and all the wines in between, I’ve never had a Wolffer wine that I’d call "poor." Roman Roth, their winemaker and general manager, is nearly magical in his ability to craft delicious wines year in and year out. He’s so good, in fact, that several other wineries on the Island have him make (or consult on) their wines. As…