(This column appeared in the 6/17/05 issue of Dan’s Papers) Ever since the release of the movie Sideways, pinot noir has been the “it” wine. Even here on Long Island, I’ve been told stories about customers walking into a tasting room and buying bottle after bottle of pinot noir – without even tasting it or knowing how much it costs. As difficult as Pinot Noir can be to grow and make (well), that sort of impulse buying seems a little silly to me. But of the handful of Long Island wineries that make it, most do it well, including Castello di…